Written by Ilman Ramadhanu | Read in Indonesian

If there was one overarching theme for Jakarta Fashion Week 2024, it would probably be love. From a mushy romantic tale at Isshu’s show where the audience became a witness to a kitschy yet heartfelt wedding proposal, to an ode to motherly love at Tanah Lesae and Esemu’s shows, as well as a story of overcoming past heartbreaks told by Ivan Gunawan. 

Sartorially, what was conveyed was a concoction of pieces imbued with softness and sentimentality. This was evident in the multitudes of charming decorative elements like ruffles, lace and flowers throughout Starry’s collection, the abundance of twirly dresses at Ernesto Abram and Adrie Basuki’s stages, as well as the sensuous use of sheer fabrics at Saya. Together, these details created an atmosphere of gentleness.

Charm in the details

Cute, tender and endearing embellishments or decorative elements were the primary choices of many designers to convey romanticism in their designs. From ruffles to lace and bows–all were heavily featured. But the most notable of all were flowers. 

There were so many floral elements this year, Miranda Priestly would have had a field day. Everyone knows her infamous quote, “Floral? For Spring? Groundbreaking,” in “The Devil Wears Prada”.

Starry, Esemu, Rama Dauhan, Bluesville, Tanah Lesae, ANW and Ivan Gunawan–to name  a few)--all incorporated flower-inspired elements in their collections. Even at Aesthetic Pleasure, known for its functional, no-nonsense, pared-back silhouette, a 3D flower embellishment still found its way in an off-white sleeveless top in their collection.

Though what felt rather groundbreaking was the range of techniques and approaches that were used, which made seeing countless flowers felt fresh and interesting. ANW and Tanah Lesae resorted to intricate fabric manipulation techniques, such as embroidery and 3D appliques to incorporate floral adornments into their garments. Similarly, Rama Dauhan used fabric manipulation to create a fabric with laser-precision floral cut-outs, which he then fashioned into a maxi baby doll dress and a padded bolero.

JFW newcomer, Tobatenun, took a different approach, presenting a collection with a colour palette inspired by indigenous flowers from the Karo region. Prominently featured were colours such as fir green and sunkissed coral, all derived from natural dyes. 

In the accessory department, Esemu, took inspiration from tuberose. They used pleating and gathering techniques to transform the shape of the flower petal into voluminous ruffles and wave-like textures, which they masterfully incorporated into their signature large shoulder bag. 

Though the collections that felt most like an explosion of romance were none other than Starry and Ivan Gunawan. Every delicate trinket one might imagine to create a sense of gentleness in a collection was on display. The soft wash of colours, floral prints, cascading ruffles, flared out and flowy maxi dresses were all there

Conceptually, there were a lot of similarities, yet they occupied different ends of the spectrums. Starry’s collection carried a quaint and nostalgic charm, thanks to its abundance of prairie dresses, while Ivan Gunawan’s take was more glamorous and upbeat. Nonetheless, in a year where romantic embellishments dominate, the amorous pieces created by these two designers ultimately became the defining mark of this year’s JFW. 

Sensual sheerness

At last year’s Jakarta Fashion Week, Harry Halim presented a collection that began with an all-black ensemble covering the entirety of the model’s body. A pretty dramatic entrance, albeit rather confusing. The problem was the fabric wasn’t sheer enough, leaving the audience staring into a vast void of darkness.

Later, in an Instagram post, he explained how the intended look was meant to be entirely sheer with the model wearing no undergarment. However, he had changed it last minute as he felt that the somewhat conservative nature of Indonesian society was not yet ready for the sight of a fully nude model wearing only a tissue-thin sheer fabric.

How times have changed. This year, designers were unafraid to reveal skins through the use of sheer fabrics as seen in collections from Saya and Stellarissa, which made this year’s JFW felt more sensual. 

The winner of this year’s Fashion Force Awards in the ready-to-wear category, Saya, presented a collection brimming with sheerness. One of the looks featured a two-piece set consisting of a completely sheer sleeveless top and relaxed pants, leaving the model bare-chested with only underwear. 

At first glance, it would be easy to come to the conclusion that Saya’s collection was intended to celebrate women’s bodies. However, that would be an understatement. 

Sartorially, the collection was a study on layering and movement. One look featured a floor-length black maxi baby doll dress with an elegant gathering at the top, which might look conservative initially. But when it moved it revealed a provocative high-slit, reaching up to the waist. 

There was also a sleeveless sheath dress distinguishable by a triangular transparent bottom portion and a deeply plunging open back. It exuded the allure of Tom Ford’s Gucci from the 1990s without the heaviness that can make it intimidating. Instead, the translucence, layering and movement of the dress made it, and the entire collection, feel as though they float.

Elsewhere, a profusion of bedazzled sheer lace dresses and halter tops was showcased at Stellarissa’s stage. Titled “Siren”, the collection celebrated women through show of dominance; as evident in a series of body-hugging contemporary evening gowns in leather and denim. However, it was these sheer pieces that gave the collection an edge, striking a balance between sentimentality and strength. Similar to Saya’s, this collection eloquently portrayed the multifaceted nature of womanhood.

Life twirls on

The theme of softness extended to the silhouettes, with many designers opting to showcase unstructured pieces with relaxed, oversized and billowy silhouettes. Pieces such as maxi dresses and skirts were prominently showcased. 

Ernesto Abram’s collection was filled with loose-fitting dresses. However, “loose-fitting” does not equal lack of shape, as Ernesto Abram masterfully used pleating techniques to create dimensions and exquisite textures in his collection, resulting in dresses that felt ethereal. Similarly, Adrie Basuki showcased a multitude of flowy maxi dresses embellished with patchworks and pom-poms.

The prevalence of maxi dresses and skirts had an impact in how designers directed their models to walk. There was a surge of models playfully twirling down the runway, playing with yards of excess fabric and utilising the fluidity of the soft, flowy fabric to create a breezy effect. I guess that’s what happens when you’re in love; you walk with a sense of bliss. 

Ultimately, as the white runway folded, the romantic pieces that dominated this year’s Jakarta Fashion Week stand as a testament to the talent of Indonesian designers to translate the intricate nuances of what might be considered one of the most vulnerable human experiences through the art of fashion. 

Related articles

News