Miu Miu

Reminiscent to the early 2000s y2k fashion, Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu was the moment of Spring 2022 Paris Fashion Week. Departing from their usual kitschy design, Miuccia Prada this time designed a fierce and refreshing collection. Wardrobe classics such as trousers, sweaters, blazers, and dresses were given a whole new meaning. The usual corporate skirts were altered into micro-mini low rise skirts, tops had frayed fabric and cropped as short as they could be and dresses were dramatically adorned with embellishments. For this season, Miu Miu showed everyone that mundane structured clothing can be altered, giving a new relationship to the meaning of preppy fashion.

Although it may seem rough around the edges, Miuccia Prada brought out an edgier and spontaneous feel to the runway. The elements of construction were left raw and exposed, giving the garments a new sense of archetype and character. Models wore low rise baggy trousers with Miu Miu undergarments peeping through just above the hip; what could be worn as a skirt were reworked into belted bandeaus; cropped cardigans were worn over slashed polo tops and paired with ankle socks and kitten heels. Miuccia Prada brought out sophisticated yet magically distinct features, that womenswear business fabric could be repurposed into something sophisticated, chic and rebellious.

Louis Vuitton

Nicolas Ghesquière and his Louis Vuitton collection have always been a highly anticipated closing show of Paris Fashion Week, being the mastermind of juxtaposing elements and renewing bygone eras into something new. He presented a show at the Louvre with orchestral themes. The Elizabethan era was heavily referenced in this collection. Skirts were hinged wide which exaggerated the models’ hips. Beaded jackets were opulent and constructed in a contemporary manner by adding denim to their collars. Extravagant is one way to describe it, but the prestigious complexity in creating art through the lens of the past is the reason why this collection is a work of art.

Celebrating the 200th anniversary of its founder’s birthday, the brand paid homage to its heritage. Making sure it stays in the present moment, the brand also transformed the past and present into a fusion that danced elegantly and dynamically on the runway. Taking inspiration from regency-core fashion, the use of fabrics played a big role in creating a unique collection. Velvets were paired with sequins, and satin was paired with denim. Hoop skirts were worn with modern blouses and laced up almost boot-like sandals. There were tuxedo jackets and hippie-style dresses that gave a nod to the 70s and 80s fashion. To balance out the daring garments, the models were decorated with oversized tote bags, clutch bags, as well as bucket bags. Each design was modern in its essence and Ghesquière redefined iconic pieces that bent the rules of old times into their most extreme nature.

Courrèges

Courrèges by Nicolas Di Felice transformed Maison’s 60s aesthetic into a contemporary object of desire for present-day generations. The inspiration and theme of the runway show were space-age, futuristic outdoor parties. Di Felice incorporated a modern and minimal touch to the house’s DNA while still making sure to stay aligned with the brand’s image. He chose a monochromatic palette with a touch of colours, and the silhouettes were nothing short of varying dimensions and 1960s hems and necklines.

The hero garments were outerwear that represented rave gear from the future: slick ponchos, vinyl bomber and moto jackets as well as tailored glossy trenches that came in brown, electric blue, black leather and sunshine yellow that brought a new interpretation of retro-futurism. Courrèges presented modern elements of cutouts and crossover crop tops and halter tops paired with flared ribbed trousers and miniskirts. There were also oddly shaped trapeze dresses with visible diagonal pockets that looked like star trek-esque costumes. A beautiful A-line electric blue dress with triangular cutouts was worn over almost see-through pants and paired with a baseball hat. To keep it in tune with the garments, the models floated on a runway in knee-high leather boots, mules and strappy sandals. In this collection, Di Felice brought his innovative vision into reality with pure aesthetic results and simplicity.

Balenciaga

With her epic and genius mind, the designer of Balenciaga Demna Gvasalia organised a show that was a commentary on idolising celebrities, pop culture and inclusivity. The two-part event was both brilliant and unexpected. Guests sat inside the Théâtre Du Châtelet to watch a live “red carpet”, which was actually Balenciaga’s runway show. Balenciaga models as well as celebrities, such as Elliot Page, Offset, Lewis Hamilton, Cardi B, Dev Hynes, Isabelle Hupper and Ella Emhoff were seen at the show. Once the red carpet show ended, they were presented with a crossover episode of The Simpsons x Balenciaga. The short film told a story where Marge, her family and the citizens of Springfield were flown out to Paris to walk in a Balenciaga show. Gvasalia’s tongue-in-cheek and childlike mind was a stroke of epicness that brought out a relaxed and fun version of the usually intense and serious fashion week. He embraced unconventional media to deliver his collection.

As for the runway itself, the collection was a refined continuation of Gvasalia’s past collection. Black dominated the colour palette, combined with an eclectic choice of colourful hues, such as neon yellow, pink, muted brown and blue. The show opened with a grandiose lace ball gown for couture nights, followed by long sleeve sequin dresses for formal wear, oversized suit jackets, coats, as well as ragged asymmetrical sweaters that were worn with knee rip wide leg denim for a casual punk rock streetwear approach. Gvasalia himself closed the show in a black veil and hoodie.