Loewe

Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe, described the Fall/Winter 2022 collection as “primal”. An explorer of pushing things forward into extremes, the designer’s approach was inspired by Sigmund Freud's surrealist work. Surrealism is a movement that upturned pre-WWII   mass psychological tension into art, born to fight against rationalism and fight against reality, turning it into fantasy.

The collection comprises a series of short leather, cap sleeve dresses and moulded leather minidresses that stick to the left as if rippled by breeze. There were also iridescent shirts designed to duplicate the reflections of water. Although this collection is less colourful than previous shows, the leather-based brand showcased polished yet muted tones like chestnut, pale pink, baby blues and neutral monochromatic colours.

The touches of extravagance lie in the surreal touches, such as 3D shiny balloons on sheer fabric maxi dresses, automobile shapes outlined into dress hems, stiletto heels under a gauzy mesh  draped gown and hyper-realistic anatomies. Anderson described his work as feminist art - heavy references from Meret Oppenheim as well as Lynda Benglish who loved using poured latex. The huge red dark latex lips connected to the dress creates a simple balance between the undulated flounce of the skirt

It may all seem to appear extreme, but the use of simple textiles such as latex, resin and tweed while incorporating bulky lines and chunky shapes created a look that was still elegant in its own right. Printed hands across the torso and Trompe-l'œil inspired outlines of a body on a long turtleneck dress showed his daring choice.

On more traditional garments, Anderson’s notable sweaters were revamped with raised circular collars that could resemble pillows and robe-like cardigans with padded sleeves. Fur skirts were paired with latex tops and knitted turtlenecks, focusing on oversized tailoring that hits the stride with a structured yet charmingly messy demeanour.

Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada traced back to her viral designs of micro-mini skirts and crop top sets from last season and reinvented it as the spotlight of the show. The brand opened its presentation with a new take on the famous skirt adorned by celebrities in editorial magazines. This time, the skirt had pleated detailing and a pronounced waistline while still keeping the logo underwear that peeked through just above the hemline on top. Her cheeky taste appeared in new variations, taking inspiration from the 90s: skirts paired with polos and ballerina flats.

But the most monumental looks were the fall outerwear that was perfectly conceptualised with layers. Heavy weight jackets with snakeskin shoulders and embellished with crystals - an amalgam of rigidity and softness, fleshy and protective – a great way to describe Miuccia Prada’s vision. Beautifully rare as a woman in design.

This season’s collection combines work-esque aesthetic and tennis inspired dress code. It demonstrated gender-diverese expression, fitting for nonbinary style and traditionally masculine physique. Both men and women donned last season’s cropped cable knits and little jackets. This time, there were lace up and double belted leather trousers, knee-high knitted socks and shearling leather jackets. Although unconventional, her garments boast an energetic youthful play intersecting between sexy and preppy. The variations of snow white fur with see-through dresses and endless variations of accessories paired with the monochrome ensembles gave breath to a new era of modern Y2K.

Off White

This season, the New Guards Group – recently appointed as the creative team to deliver a collection that honoured the late Virgil. The large-scale production unpacked a legacy Abloh left behind. Large chandeliers and cars scattered along the runway.

The posthumous collection that showcased 28 looks was titled “Spaceship Earth”. A celebration and tribute to Abloh’s footsteps and craftsmanship in the world of fashion. It consists of Off White staple pieces that were revamped to newer silhouettes and shapes. There was no shortage of billowing and innovative take on Off White’s classics. Standard puffer jackets, hoodies and suitings are juxtaposed with cutout sweaters, large headgear and endless parade of tulle.

Oversized suits, a classic Abloh design, was the mainstay of the show - the suits were presented in both solid classic colours and contemporary prints. The show is full of Abloh-isms, from elevated hoodies to large pockets of utilitarian cargo gear, large baggy trousers, as well as letterman jackets and handbags written with his signature “quotes” branding.

The show reminded viewers of how extensive and brilliant Abloh is. Each look was heavily annotated with not only the number of hours for the specific embroidery or the hours for another handmade veil, but also little backstories. There was a never worn 2020 Met Gala dress for Kylie Jenner and a representation of how Abloh dealt privately with his health: Cindy Crawford’s two handbags - one printed with “MORE LIFE” and another a transparent pouch full of red and white pill capsules.

Dyed sets were revitalised in a refreshing way. One of the sets featured a green tie-dyed dress with matching leggings and cropped puffer. There were long sleeves with diamond-shaped cutouts, exposing the garments underneath.

Abloh’s famous Off-White tulle gowns closed the show. The dresses were attached to t-shirts and sweatshirts or layered with oversized boxy blazers, an epitomised concept of streetwear innovation that the brand is known for.

Balenciaga

When Russian President Vladimir Putin ordered an unprovoked attack on Ukraine, the world was alarmed and privy to the media circulating the tragedy. We see Ukrainian citizens having boundless resiliency and fearlessness, seeking refuge in neighbouring countries or taking up arms against the invader. While their strength and courage is inspiring, it’s important to recognise the fear and suffering they have endured thus far.

Balenciaga Creative Director Demna Gvasalia went further by making the tragedy the focus of his Fall/Winter 2022 collection. The connection between the war in Ukraine and Demna’s childhood runs deep. Due to the civil war, at the age of ten, Demna and his family fled Abkhazia, Georgia. They sought refuge in the southern Ukrainian city of Odessa.

In a poignant moment he said, “The War in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my home country and I became a forever refugee…The fear, the desperation, the realisation that no one wants you,” adding, “It is a dedication to fearlessness…and to the victory of love and peace.” Demna used his art to draw the viewers’ gaze to the fight and perseverance of the Ukrainian people.

The show was set in a glass rotunda where the models trudged through a simulated snow storm. Under an apocalyptic scenario, Balenciaga’s presentation showed a stoical elegance. Keeping the colour palette minimal, the models wore black garments - catsuits and asymmetric dresses. There was an oversized hoodie paired with padded leather jackets. The collection also featured long trains and reinvented turtleneck pieces and capped sleeves.

Each model was accessorised with a pair of the brand’s signature alien-eye glasses. Some of the models walked down the runway with a large bag resembling a garbage bag. Classic signatures of Balenciaga also appeared - sock boots, neutral and dark floral pattern pieces with matching gloves. The closing looks were an oversized yellow tracksuit and a blue long sleeve dress with a train. Reminding the audience yet again of the show’s main focus.

The pieces and the stage evoked a feeling of insolence, a groundbreaking reference to not only his refugee experience, but also the current reality of many Ukrainians trying to escape a difficult journey for freedom.