The Milestone: How Tommy Ambiyo Tedji built Byo from scratch

In #TheMilestone series, TFR interviewed brands about their journey from the very beginning. This series meant to give insight to readers how a brand or company is built from zero. It also highlights the importance of process.

This week, TFR has the chance to meet up with Byo founder Tommy Ambiyo Tedji. Known for its modular weaving technique, Byo has steadily increased its footprint in the fashion industry. The brands were awarded Good Design Indonesia 2017 from Ministry of Trade.

How did Byo get started and how did you develop the idea for Byo?

I have been into art since I was young. I majored in product design in Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB). After graduated, I realised I want to work on wearable. Wearable is essentially fashion but it doesn’t mean it has to be clothing. Because I was trained in industrial design, bags came the closest. It also helps that I love bags.

I knew since the beginning that I couldn’t compete with established brands that have the best leather and best stitches. I decided to choose different route and pick something I love, which is science fiction. I experimented with new materials and techniques.

I have been working as full-time visual merchandiser since 2008 when I launched my first collection in 2010 called ‘Kertas.’ I used paper material called Tyvek. Tyvek is waterproof and anti-tear. The response was great but it didn’t last long. Unfortunately, a year after the success of my launch, sales went down to the point where there are no more sales. Perhaps people find it unique but they don’t like easily wrinkled bag. I resigned from my full-time job in 2011 to focus on Byo. With no sales and no cash, I knew right then and there that I had to commit to Byo in researching and innovating. My family and friends were concerned. My life seemed devastating. I had friends who offered me job but I turned them down. This process is scary but it taught me consistency and faith.

From 2012 to 2013, I concentrated on research. I didn’t abandon my initial idea. I’m absolutely sure there’s more I could do. I sold my leftover products from ‘Kertas’ collection on Etsy to fund my research. I got orders from Sweden, Japan, the US, Singapore, Malaysia, and Australia. My research brought me to Eastern part of Java to meet with artisans. The trip opened my eyes.

Turns out, there’re many Indonesians who could create things without any help from machine or technology. The cost of labour is also lower than in other countries. I wanted to create science fiction, futuristic products with Indonesian touch. I went with modular textile system for my bag. The research continued to material, shape, and geometry.

The brand was finally launched in 2014 and it took off. I received great response from people. I was finally able to reach turnover. I was in so much debt while the brand was in the research phase. Learning from my past experience, I knew this hype would not last forever. I created new collection for each season, not just different colours but I experimented with new modular system. From 2014 to 2018, I launched new modular system each year with interesting shapes and variety of inspiration. I am grateful that my brand is still up and running to this day.

How long did it take for you to develop idea and design a collection? Is it different to designing clothes?

It took us a year for our first collection. After that the process got faster –approximately 6 months – than before because we have to launch new modular system every year.

The process is different from designing clothes. In 2015, I ventured out to clothes but they are not for sale. They are for fashion show and art installation purpose. It’s hard to show bags on runway so I created clothes to accompany the bags. Even though the clothes use modular technique, the process of creating garment couldn’t be more different. I’m still learning to adapt.

How did you market your brand?

Social media helped me a lot. Twitter was my saviour in 2010. Instagram was my saviour in 2014. Instagram’s algorithm in 2014 was nothing like the algorithm in 2018. It might be more difficult to market new brand in Instagram in present day. It certainly helps that my friends have been supportive since day one.

I’ve also had contact with retailers like The Goods Dept. When I launched ‘Kertas’ in 2010, I joined their pop-up market, Brightspot Market. In 2014, I contacted them again to inform them about my latest launch.

Where do you see you brand heading?

I definitely want to expand my brand but it will take another 5 years. I’m still handling design and development. I currently have 5 full-time team members and 25 part-time members on production. I want to gather like-minded people who are curious about textile and fashion and who don’t see fashion as a superficial industry in Byo’s community in order to create something new.

What is your opinion on fashion industry?

One thing for sure, customers are always hunting for either newness or affordability. I’m glad my customers appreciate our hard work. In my opinion, we have to learn by ourselves and create a new system because there is no fashion system in Indonesia. When I re-launched my brand in 2014, I immediately created a website so I didn’t have to rely on others, be it wholesalers or retailers, to sell. There’s no one exact formula of success. Some people think they need to get their products sold at Galeries Lafayette in order to achieve success but it depends on the individual.

Have you ever thought of going global?

Yes, but I need more preparation for that. Following the international system, brands flew their products to Paris at the end of Paris Fashion Week twice a year. Brands either opened a showroom or joined trade shows to meet with buyers. I have joined a showroom in Paris in 2016 and 2017. I learned that I need more connection to buyers. It’s harder if you don’t hire PR. Brands who showed in Paris either have buyers in place or strong branding. Production, on the other hand, has been settled.

What is your advice for upcoming designers?

First and foremost, you have to be passionate. If your relationship with fashion is a temporary fling, don’t expect longevity. If you are committed to this industry, it’s going to be a long, winding road. Second, you need to possess strong identity. You have to be creative, consistent, and patient. Most importantly, enjoy the journey because it’s not going to be easy.