Enchanted Moments showcased enchanting bridal collections

Written by Ilman Ramadhanu | Read in Indonesian

Love was in the air at the St. Regis Hotel as the Indonesian digital wedding platform, Weddingku, hosted a three-day wedding extravaganza titled “Enchanted Moments: an exquisite wedding fair” (EMWF) at the tail end of May.

Drawing in starry-eyed couples seeking to plan their perfect day, the event curated over 80 wedding vendors and an array of activities. Admittedly, it was kind of awkward to walk around without a plus-one, but fortunately, the grand ballrooms that were adorned with awe-inspiring wedding decorations and the hallways that were filled with opulent wedding gowns provided a visually captivating distraction. The exhibits took you on a journey from East to West as they showcased a fusion of international influences and the rich tapestry of Indonesian traditions.

Downstairs, a fashion soiree unfolded. A sizable runway took centre stage with a row of pristine white Chiavari chairs aligned perfectly on the side that stood in contrast against the black and gold decor, awaiting the elegant wedding dresses that would soon grace them.

Bridal is one of those breeds in fashion that often feels frozen in time. However, at EMWF, the participating designers showcased a refreshing departure from the norm. While intricate beading, lace and tulle ensembles remained prevalent, what truly made an impression were the fashion-forward silhouettes, unconventional textures and captivating colours, offering something unique for every type of bride.

High-drama silhouettes

The idea of a classic silhouette was thrown out the window as some of the designers opted to showcase statement-making gowns in their collection.

One such designer is Yefta Gunawan, a seasoned bridal designer, who incorporated flower details to create unique silhouettes. In one of his looks, he showcased an amorphous mini-dress, featuring exaggerated flower accents at the front and adorned with glittering beads, making it an innovative choice for a striking after-party look.

Collection by Yefta Gunawan. Credit: Official Photo by Terralogical

Though for the main wedding day, Yefta still embraced that timeless elegance while adding a touch of grandeur, as apparent in the show-stopping sheath gown look that featured an endlessly flowing train and intricate embellishments. The embroidery, beading and ruching were meticulously crafted into the shape of a flower, giving the dress dramatic yet delicate feels.

Etiquettewhite also showcased their version of statement-making gowns, which took the form of a dress with interchangeable embellishments.

At one point in the show, a model entered wearing a white asymmetric lace gown with a high slit. To everyone's surprise, the lace was dramatically ripped off, revealing an “undergarment” dress beneath.

A troop of seamstresses then swiftly surrounded her, transforming the dress into a completely different ensemble featuring a sweetheart neckline and a wrap skirt. The transformation did not stop there, as the dress was later converted into a fully beaded gown while maintaining a similar silhouette.

Collection by Etiquettewhite. Credit: Official Photo by Terralogical

The mechanism of the dress can be likened to one of those paper dolls that you can attach a million different outfits to, but in this case you can only modify its embellishments. These embellishments are meticulously sewn into a sheer fabric that can easily be attached and detached.

This concept offers an innovative solution, enabling brides to have multiple looks without actually paying for more than one dress. And as a plus, it allows for a moment of individuality reminiscent of Lady Gaga's ever-changing outfits at the 2019 Met Gala, for brides who wish to change clothes as they walk down the aisle.

Refined sensuality

Something old, something new, something borrowed, something sheer and body-con? Designers such as Christie Basil and Etiquettewhite explored varying degrees of sultriness as they featured elements of tasteful sheerness, corsetry and revealing separates in their bridal dresses.

Titled "La Silhouette", Etiquettewhite’s collection powerfully celebrated women's bodies, evoking the notion that every size is beautiful. Sartorially, this empowering concept came to life through the incorporation of lingerie and corsetry into contemporary bridal gowns, worn by a diverse group of models. The collection also showcased two-piece separates that tantalisingly revealed the skin, which made the whole collection felt seductive, youthful and daring.

At Christie Basil, the masterful use of sheer fabrics created an ethereal atmosphere, as if the collection floated effortlessly. The sheerness of each ball gown delicately accentuated the elegant lines and contours of the model, yet nothing felt raunchy. Instead, it struck the perfect balance between allure and refinement, which is a testament to Christie's expert craftsmanship and impeccable taste.

Collection by Christie Basil. Credit: Official Photo by Terralogical

However, sheerness does not always equate to sexiness. Instead, sheer fabric often serves to highlight the intricacy of craftsmanship. In Christie’s collection, sheer fabric acted as a canvas, allowing the elaborate embroidery and delicate feather appliques to shine. Against this backdrop, the embellishments became more pronounced, resulting in a captivating interplay of negative space and immaculate detailing.

It does not have to be white

Contrary to popular belief driven by Western-centric culture, wedding dresses don’t have to be white. In Indonesia, various cultural traditions embrace the use of colour in wedding attire. For instance, South Sumatran wedding dresses are typically adorned with rich hues of red and gold, while Javanese culture features the bride and groom donning attire in black and gold.

This is why the collection from Redberry stood out with their captivating red, gold and bronze tones as well as their striking batik prints, amidst a sea of designers predominantly showcasing white dresses. The collection was meant to champion lace, the quintessential fabric often found in Indonesian wedding dresses. It featured kebaya dresses combined with tapis, batik and tenun fabric, some of which were transformed into dramatic trains and shawls.

Collection by Redberry. Credit: Official Photo by Terralogical

Alternatively, Soko Wiyanto and Etiquettewhite added bright colours to their contemporary bridal dresses. Soko’s collection was dominated by orange and yellow-toned gowns, infusing the runway with warmth and energy. While Etiquettewhite presented a white wedding dress adorned with captivating splatter paint motifs.

Alternative veils

In some cultures, veil is an integral part of a wedding, but in a collection titled “Ecdysis” (a biological term for transformations), Ivy Atelier sought to challenge this by presenting a series of avant-garde veil alternatives.

The first look showcased an off-the-shoulder gown that was paired with an eye-covering veil that lit up as the lighting dimmed. As the show progressed, more avant-garde veils emerged. A white bishop sleeves gown entered the runway paired with an oversized wide brim hat with elongated fringe, creating an ensemble that elegantly enveloped the upper body of the model.

Collection by Ivy Atelier. Credit: Official Photo by Terralogical

Elsewhere, Etiquettewhite and Yefta Gunawan both showcased their innovative interpretations of a veil. Taking cues from the hooded gowns trend that is sweeping across Hollywood red carpets, a style synonymous to the newly revamped fashion house Alaïa, Etiquettewhite presented a white hood as a contemporary veil alternative in a look that consisted of an elegant tube top and shimmering long skirt. Meanwhile, staying true to the floral theme, Yefta Gunawan introduced a fashion-forward substitute for veils: a swimming cap embellished with floral sculptures.