The allure of fashion prints

Written by Ilman Ramadhanu | Read in Indonesian

The cycle of fashion trends moves quicker than the speed of light, but one thing that never goes out of style is fashion prints.

Historically, prints have been used to adorn clothes for generations. In China and India, the practice of fabric printing dates back to 220 AD with the technique known as woodblock printing. The Industrial Revolution in the 19th century brought significant advancements to fabric printing technology, with the introduction of steam-powered printing presses and synthetic dyes. These innovations made fabric printing faster, cheaper and more efficient, leading to the widespread availability of printed fabrics to the masses.

From a design perspective, prints have multiple significance. The aesthetic appeal that the prints exude allows designers to inject personality and originality into their designs. The more niche and original the prints are, the more beneficial, as having prints be synonymous with brands could build brand identity among consumers.

The classic check print by Burberry, the dazzling multi-coloured zigzag print of Missoni, the lavishly bold baroque print by Gianni Versace–these signature prints are so iconic that consumers could recognise the brands simply from the sight of these prints.

The Burberry check

The Burberry check, also known as the "Burberry plaid" or "Burberry tartan", is a distinctive pattern consisting of crisscrossed horizontal and vertical stripes in camel, black, red, and white. The pattern features thick and thin stripes intersecting to create a symmetrical design, often with a border of solid lines along the edges.

It was first used in the 1920s as a lining for the brand’s line of raincoat, and according to the lore among fashion historians, the check print gained popularity in the 1960s after a Parisian sales clerk reversed their store’s trench coats inside out as a creative visual display method.

From then on, its popularity increased, especially in the 1990s when the popularity of the print experienced a significant surge, attributed in part to the cultural movement known as ‘Cool Britannia’. This period marked a resurgence of British pride and cultural influence, particularly in music, fashion and art. The Burberry print became emblematic of this trend as it was embraced by aristocrats, upper-class British society and celebrities.

The print then became a coveted symbol of luxury which people wore to signify their status and wealth. However, this led to the print’s association with certain sub-cultures. In the early 2000s, the print became linked with the "Chav" aesthetic in the UK, a term used to describe a stereotypical working-class youth characterised by their flashy and often counterfeit designer clothing. This association with a particular subculture caused Burberry to scale back on the production of the print.

But nowadays, following the successful run of Riccardo Tisci and his successor Daniel Lee, the iconic check has become a signature print in their collection, appearing on sleek contemporary tank tops, trench coats, even bikinis, robes and XL beach bags.

Missoni’s zigzag print

Missoni's zigzag print, on the other hand, emerged from a different artistic vision and cultural context. Founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in the 1950s, the brand became renowned for its innovative use of colour and pattern.

The zigzag print, in particular, became one of the brand's most iconic patterns, symbolising the brand's commitment to bold and distinctive designs. It was first created in 1966 when the couple rediscovered “Raschel” machines, a knitting machine traditionally used to create the shawls worn in the south of Italy. The machine enabled the manipulation of lines and motifs within a design, resulting in a vibrant array of rainbow colours and a mixture of horizontal and vertical lines that characterise the zigzag print of Missoni.

The pattern's bold, colourful stripes zigzag across the fabric which creates a visual impact that is both striking and modern quickly became a signature of the brand, adorning everything from knitwear and dresses to home furnishings and accessories.

What sets the Missoni zigzag print apart is its versatility and adaptability. Unlike other prints that may be tied to specific cultural movements or sub-cultures, the Missoni zigzag print transcends trends, remaining a timeless and iconic symbol of the brand. Whether worn as a statement piece or incorporated into everyday looks, the print adds a touch of sophistication and artistry to any ensemble.

The brand continues to reinterpret the zigzag print in fresh and innovative ways. From vibrant knitwear to elegant evening gowns, the Missoni zigzag print remains a beloved and enduring symbol of the brand's rich heritage and creative vision.

Versace’s Baroque print

Regarded as one of the most influential designers, Gianni Versace left behind a fashion legacy like no other. Gianni was known for his bold and lavish designs; one standout element is the Baroque print.

First introduced in his spring/summer 1992 collection, this print is an amalgamation of intricate motifs inspired by the grandiosity of the Baroque period, featuring scrolls, acanthus leaves and medallions adorned in gold colours. He used silk or other shiny fabrics to give the print fluidity and a richness of colour akin to what one would see in Baroque paintings.

The print quickly became synonymous with his namesake brand, now only known as Versace, adorning everything from clothing and accessories to home furnishings and even luxury cars. The print's extravagant and eye-catching design captured the spirit of the 1990s, a decade known for its bold and maximalist approach to fashion.

Similar to Burberry’s check print, the popularity of Versace’s Baroque print was boosted by celebrity endorsements, with popular hip-hop artists of the time such as Lil' Kim and Notorious B.I.G. wearing the print. Even today, the extravagant appeal of the print continues to capture the eyes of celebrities, with Beyonce recently wearing a Baroque print dress in her “Renaissance” world tour.

Now led by Gianni’s sister, Donatella Versace, the brand continues to reimagine the print with each new collection, ensuring its relevance in contemporary fashion.